Sunscreen products – Are UV filters safe and clean?

Role And Origins Of Sunscreen Products

Sunscreen products protect our skin from sunburn by using UV filters. These UV filters act as barriers, either absorbing or reflecting UV radiation to limit its harmful effects on the skin. For more details, please read our article on European regulations for sunscreen products.

Two categories of UV filters are approved for use in sunscreens: organic and mineral filters. Both are listed in Annex VI of the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, which specifies the safe concentrations for sunscreen formulations. UV filters are often used in combination to provide higher levels of skin protection.

While both types have their own benefits and drawbacks, all approved filters have been thoroughly assessed for human health safety. However, their ecotoxicity and environmental impact remain areas with limited research.

UV Filters In Nano Form

Currently, only five approved UV filters are permitted in nano form: titanium dioxide [nano], zinc oxide [nano], methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol [nano], tris-biphenyl triazine [nano], and bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate) piperazine [nano]. These nano-sized filters were developed to prevent the white residue often left on the skin when applying sunscreen.

Their use has been approved as their safety for human health has been confirmed under specific concentrations and controlled exposure conditions. However, the environmental risks associated with these nano UV filters remain unassessed, and they could potentially have a significant impact on aquatic ecosystems.

Why Are Environmental Concerns Not Considered When Assessing The Safety Of Cosmetic Products?

The Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 considers human health safety as a priority when assessing the safe use of cosmetics. The term “environmental concerns” can be found in the preamble of the Regulation but is only considered through the prism of hazardous substances: 

The environmental concerns that substances used in cosmetic products may raise are considered through the application of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 December 2006 concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH). 

There is currently no requirement to study the ecotoxicity of substances used in cosmetic formulas, meaning the potential impact of these products on fauna and flora often goes unexamined. This applies to all cosmetic ingredients and products.

We have chosen to focus on sunscreens because their widespread use and direct entry into oceans and seas make their environmental impact more apparent. In contrast, it is less immediately obvious how rinse-off products like shower gels, shampoos, and toothpaste contribute to environmental harm.

These products are typically processed in wastewater treatment plants, but residues eventually spread onto fields and can make their way into rivers and other water systems.

Are There Solutions To Minimise Environmental Impact?

Fortunately, yes! Formulators and manufacturers are increasingly recognizing the need to prioritise not only human health but also the health of our planet. One example is Galeniform, a company specialising in eco-formulations for cosmetics, detergents, and sports products.

In the cosmetics sector, Galeniform’s expertise includes hygiene products, face and body care, sunscreens, hair products, and deodorants. They assist brands in creating sustainable formulas tailored to their specifications while adhering to key sustainability principles. These include sourcing ingredients locally and ensuring the safety of ingredients for both terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems.

Galeniform goes beyond the requirements of the Cosmetics Regulation by avoiding ingredients banned in heavily impacted regions like Hawaii, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate. These substances have been linked to harmful effects on marine life. In response to such concerns, some brands have introduced “reef safe” logos to promote their products.

However, without clear regulations on these claims, and when considering the entire lifecycle of a product, the reliability of these logos can be questionable. In France, the Loi Agec prohibits most self-declared logos and claims unless they are backed by substantial evidence.

To ensure true sustainability, Galeniform collaborates with Toxi Plan, a team of ecotoxicologists. They analyse cosmetic formulas to predict their safety for plants and animals. These predictions can be further validated by ecotoxicological studies, allowing for accurate labelling that genuinely reflects a product’s eco-friendliness.

How Is Taobé Contributing To Sustainability?

With the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) driving businesses toward a healthier planet, Taobé is actively supporting sustainability by collaborating with partners who offer innovative, eco-friendly solutions.

These include formulation specialists like Galeniform, Co-Lab-Ora, and Natural Cosmetics Holland; sustainable packaging providers such as Ocean Waste Plastic; and experts in ecotoxicology and environmental compliance like Toxi Plan and ecosistant.

Taobé is committed to educating clients and consumers through insightful articles that debunk myths and challenge misconceptions often spread by media and social networks. One such misconception is that natural products are inherently non-toxic to biodiversity.

This isn’t always true, as nature often produces poisonous substances as survival mechanisms. By fostering a deeper understanding of the principles behind “green” and “safe,” Taobé empowers consumers to make informed choices.

In addition to education, Taobé actively participates in seminars on sustainability and durability for Belgian businesses. These sessions focus on practical ways to integrate Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) criteria into tools, processes, and services. At Taobé, we believe it’s time to prioritise the health of our planet as much as the health of its people.

Safe And Clean: What’s The Future Of Sunscreens And Sustainability?

In conclusion, thanks to the vigilance and continuous research of organisations like the SCCS and the thorough safety evaluations conducted by experts, sunscreens and their UV filters can be considered safe for human health when used under regulated conditions and concentrations. However, the environmental impact of these products remains a key concern. Only the continued dedication of scientists and formulators will make the difference until green regulations, such as those similar to the EU Deforestation Regulation, are fully implemented.

Cosmetics Europe and various other European cosmetics associations are making strides in sustainability, with initiatives like Commit for Our Planet and the gradual introduction of the European Ecolabel into the cosmetics sector.

If you, too, are committed to protecting our planet and its ecosystems, contact us to learn more about eco-formulation, ecotoxicological evaluations, sustainable packaging, and ecolabels. The sooner you embrace sustainability, the easier it will be when these practices eventually become regulatory requirements.

The best time to plant a tree was 30 years ago, and the second best time to plant a tree is now. (Source: Unknown)

Article written in collaboration with Charline Radola, Galeniform.