Furocoumarins in Switzerland
What are furocoumarins?
Furocoumarins are natural substances found in a wide variety of plant species used as ingredients in fragrances and cosmetic products. These substances are recognized as phototoxic, photomutagenic and photocarcinogenic.
When furocoumarins are activated by UVA radiation, they can react with the DNA in the skin. These reactions can alter skin cells, causing sunburn, edema, blistering, desquamation, hyperpigmentation, or depigmentation. Furocoumarins can also lead to genetic mutations and carcinogenicity. It has been demonstrated that furocoumarins contained in a mixture are additive.
Due to their phototoxicity these substances are regulated within the European Union according to the European Regulation (EC) No. 1223/ 2009 on cosmetic products. Entry 358 to Annex II bans directly added furocoumarins (except for normal content in natural essences used).
In sun protection and in bronzing products, furocoumarins shall be below 1 mg/kg (= 1 ppm). Restrictions for fragrance ingredients containing furocoumarin have been recommended in the IFRA Standard for:
• Angelica root oil
• Bergamot oil expressed
• Bitter orange oil expressed
• Cumin oil
• Grapefruit oil expressed
• Lemon oil cold pressed
• Lime oil expressed
• Rue oil
• Petitgrain Mandarin oil
• Tangerine oil cold pressed
• Parsley leaf oil
Furocoumarins in Switzerland
The legislation for furocoumarins in Switzerland is stricter than in the EU: the maximum value of 1 mg/kg is valid for all products intended to remain on the skin and which are exposed to sunlight. This may include:
- skin creams, emulsions, lotions, gels and oils
- lip care and makeup products
- sunscreen products and sunless tanning products
- aftershave products that stay on the skin
The initiative to lift the Cassis de Dijon principle for furocoumarins from the Cosmetic regulation was approved on December 8, 2023. This means that for cosmetics, the maximum value for furocoumarins (1 mg/kg) will apply from the beginning of 2026 to both products manufactured in Switzerland and imported products.
The official release of this update is only available in French.
The cosmetic products that are compliant with EU law, but not with this new Swiss law, can be placed on the market until 31 December 2025 and remain in the market just until stocks are exhausted.
Do you want to learn more about the subject, or perhaps verify that your raw materials, or the raw materials used in your products, are actually compliant with all the EU cosmetic regulations?
Contact us, and we will be happy to perform all the necessary checks!